Saturday, June 28, 2014

Pant Class Success!

A big congrats to my Basic Simple Pant class students. What a wonderful job they did on their Butterick #5614 basic pant. Some made pants, some made cropped pants. All chose great fabrics. Thanks to preparing a muslin in the first class all fit them quite well. This is one of those great patterns that fit into anyone's base pattern library. Once fitted the pattern can be modified or adjusted to make all kinds of style changes.

Friday, June 27, 2014

Tools for Summer Sewing

My Weekly Blog Post

Summer sewing is in full gear. That means sewists everywhere are making thing in lightweight fabrics. Though beautiful and comfortable to wear, summer fabrics sometimes come with sewing challenges. This week's post recommends some great tools to make summertime sewing  easy and fun.  Here is the link: tools

Thursday, June 12, 2014

6 Tips for Well Fitting Pants

courtesy: White Pants by Clio from

How many pair of pants do you own that just don’t fit right?  If you are anything like me - lots! Every year I buy another set of pants in the same basic colors. Some fit pretty well but only a few fit the way I want them to. Sound familiar?  Pants are relatively easy to make, construction wise that is. But, its quite another story when it comes to fitting them.

Making a pair of pants requires patience and a willingness to work through perhaps several attempts before you get the fit just right. The key is getting the crotch or rise to fit properly so they are both comfortable to wear and hang straight off the body. Since pants are generally designed to fit snugly and should conform to our individual silhouettes, its easy to see that a commercial pattern simply can’t address everyone’s issues. So, many fittings and adjustments are typically in order, even on the most slender figure. But, once you get the fit right you have a template for many pair of pants that can be made into many different styles and lengths.  

The real work is done before the first pattern piece of the fashion fabric is cut. Measuring, adjusting patterns and trying on either muslin makeups or pinned patterns, sometimes several times, is all part of the process, but all worth it. I am in the middle of teaching a class on making pants. My students so far have done all the appropriate measuring and adjusting and have completed their muslins. If I have taught them well and they have done the prep work well, they will have a pair of pants made perfect for them. 

When it comes to making pants, here are 6 helpful tips to keep in mind that will steer you towards the a pair of well fitting pants:


1.  Start with a basic pattern. If this is the first time making a pair of pants for yourself, don’t go too fancy or intricate with the design. Use a basic styled pant like the Butterick one pictured. Once the rise and fit around the waist, hips and buttocks are right you have a pattern that can serve as a template for so many more pairs of pants, fancy or otherwise.
2. Take the right measurements. But more importantly, be sure to do the measurements correctly and accurately. Measurements can sometimes be an elusive endeavor. You never get the same measurement every time. Using the right tools and some simple aids can help. Tie a piece of string or narrow elastic around your waist. This ensures length measurements are consistent and always start from the same point. When identifying hip points or the high hip placement, pin the spot, once again to ensure consistent measurement.  Use a good measuring tape and don’t cheat! You are what you are. Also, when measuring crotch depth, sit on a flat surface such as a table and not a chair with cushions or curve at the seat. Then use an L-square ruler to measure the depth, which is much more accurate than a measuring tape. 

3. Measure the pattern. This determines where and how much needs to be added or subtracted to match your body measurements plus ease. This forms the basis by which the patterns will be adjusted.

4. Do tissue fittings for simple pants, like pj pants. A muslin, however, is best for fitted pants and can address all the fine points of your fitting issues.  Depending on your body challenges, you may have to prepare more than one, but the result is a pair of pants that fit you perfectly.

5. Study the fit of the muslin carefully and thoroughly. Be extra critical of the muslin fit. Every drag line or fold means something is not right and needs adjusting. Pinch and fold till the pants hang straight from the crotch and there is no pulling at the knees or thighs.

6. The muslin can be the final pattern.  Once the muslin fitting is finished, either use it as the pattern for the making the pants, or be sure to carefully transfer all the alterations to the original pattern. 

Monday, June 9, 2014

How to Make a Men's Tie

My latest blog post on

Still need a gift for dear ole' dad?  How about a tie? No, not a store bought one. One made extra special by making it yourself. They are simple to make. Do what I did. Disassemble an old tie and draft a new pattern from it. Here is the link tie for the instructions on how to make one.

Thursday, June 5, 2014

Upcycle a Plain Tank Top

My Weekly Blog Post

Give new life to a simple tank top with this easy-to-do ruffle technique. It's the subject of this week's blog post. The secret is the dart-like application at the front. Here is the link:


This coming Monday, June 9th at 2pm EST I will presenting another live webinar. Learn the strategies and techniques for sewing with sheer and very lightweight fabrics. They are fun and easy to sew once you know how to gain control over them.  Click here to sign up.  

Monday, June 2, 2014


Here I go again, another webinar for on Monday, June 9th. The live presentation will begin at 2pm EST.

The topic is sewing with sheer and very lightweight fabrics.  The session is filled with oodles of great techniques and strategies for sewing with these often difficult fabrics.  
Please join in on the fun. Click here to register for the session.